Why trained apple trees need a summer haircut

If you grow apples as cordons, espaliers or fans, winter pruning alone won’t keep them in check. These restricted forms are all about controlling vigour. Left alone, they push out long, leafy shoots and very little fruit. Summer pruning turns that leafy energy into fruiting spurs.

Winter pruning encourages vigorous spring growth. Summer pruning removes leaves that are making sugars, so the roots receive less food and overall growth slows. At the same time, the sap is withdrawing, and the buds left on shortened shoots are more likely to become fruit buds rather than new wood. It is a gentle but powerful way to keep a trained tree compact and productive.

• Keeps the tree within its space on a wall, fence or support.
• Opens up the framework so light and air reach the fruit.
• Encourages short fruiting spurs instead of long, unfruitful laterals.
• Improves airflow, reducing fungal problems.

Get the timing right

In most of the UK, the window runs from late July to mid-August. In the south, aim for the last week of July; in the north or at altitude, wait a week or two longer. Pears are often ready earlier than apples, so start with them.

Look for shoots that have begun to firm up at the base, and lower leaves that look a little tired. The sap is slowing. Prune too early and the tree produces a second flush of soft growth that won’t ripen. Prune too late and buds may not form properly. Choose a dry, settled day, as damp conditions can spread canker.

Pruning cordons step by step

A cordon is a single-stemmed tree with short fruiting laterals spaced along its length. Keep those laterals short and spurry.

• Work from the bottom upwards. Find the laterals that grew this year from the main stem.
• Cut each one back to three or four buds above where it started. This is the classic summer prune for a young spur.
• If a lateral grows from an older spur that has already fruited, cut the new growth back to one bud. This keeps the spur compact.
• Remove shoots growing straight out from the base of the spur or from the main stem that you don’t want.
• If the cordon is still growing upwards, leave the leading shoot until it reaches the top of its support. Then shorten it in summer to a strong bud.
• Space spurs roughly 10 to 15 centimetres apart along the stem. If two are too close, remove one.

Use sharp secateurs and make clean cuts just above a bud, angled slightly away from it. Don’t leave long stubs — they die back and invite disease.

Espaliers, fans and other trained forms

Espaliers have horizontal arms trained along wires, with fruiting laterals growing up and down from them. Treat those laterals like cordon laterals: cut this year’s growth to three or four buds, then in following years cut the regrowth to one bud. If your espalier arms are still extending, tie in the new growth along the wire in summer and leave the tip unpruned until the arm reaches its allotted length.

Fans are similar, but with ribs spreading from a short trunk. Remove any shoots growing straight out from the wall or directly forward, as these shade the fruit and clutter the framework. Keep the ones that lie flat and prune them as above. Dwarf pyramids and stepovers follow the same principle: shorten laterals to three or four buds, then to one bud in later years, always keeping the shape open and the spurs close to the main framework.

Common mistakes to avoid

• Pruning too early. The tree produces a late flush of growth that fails to ripen, wasting energy and risking winter damage.
• Pruning too late. Fruit buds may not form properly, and the tree may not harden off before cold weather.
• Leaving long stubs. These die back and create entry points for canker. Cut close to a bud or spur.
• Over-pruning. Removing too much leaf weakens the tree and can reduce fruit size. Stick to the bud counts.
• Ignoring water shoots. Strong vertical shoots on the main stem or arms should be removed or trained flat. Left alone, they take over.
• Using blunt or dirty tools. Keep secateurs sharp and clean. Wipe them with disinfectant between trees if you have had disease problems.

Aftercare and what to expect next

After pruning, give your trees a good soak if the weather is dry. Mulch with well-rotted compost or bark to conserve moisture, but avoid high-nitrogen fertiliser — you don’t want more leafy growth. Check ties and supports, and clear prunings from the ground to reduce disease risk.

Don’t expect a dramatic change overnight. Summer pruning builds a spur system gradually. In the first year, you may just see shorter shoots. By the second or third summer, those spurs will fatten and produce blossom. Keep at it each year, and your trained apple trees will reward you with a generous crop of well-coloured fruit that is easy to pick. It is one of the most satisfying jobs in the garden — a quiet half-hour in late summer that pays you back at harvest time.